Sump Pump Repair across Vaughan

The pump does not start

• Check the outlet: a tripped GFCI or breaker is the most common cause.
• The float is stuck against the pit wall or tangled in the cord.
• The switch has failed, which happens after years of cycling.
• The motor has burned out. Touch the pump body: if it hums but does not turn, the impeller may be jammed with gravel.

The pump runs constantly

If it runs when the pit is empty, the float switch is stuck on. If it runs and the pit stays full, the discharge is blocked, frozen outside, or the check valve has failed and water is cycling between pit and pipe. In spring, constant running can simply mean the water table is high; we check the inflow before blaming the pump.

Frozen discharge

When the discharge pipe outside freezes, the pump pushes against ice and the pit overflows. A short section with an anti-freeze fitting, or a slope that empties the pipe after each cycle, prevents it. We see this a lot in January and February.

When to replace instead

A pump past eight or so years that has started to fail is usually replaced rather than repaired. Pumps are not expensive compared with the risk. When we replace, we also replace the check valve and inspect the pit for silt and the discharge for damage. See sump pump installation.

Smells from the pit

A sump pit with no water in it for months can dry out and let soil gas into the basement. Sealed, gasketed lids help. If you smell sewage rather than earth, the pit may be receiving water it should not, and that is worth a closer look. For backups through floor drains, see basement flooding repair.